§01 The experience
Three days is the version we recommend. The extra night turns a drive with a dune at the end of it into an actual desert trip: you get a full day inside Erg Chebbi instead of one sunset, and the return route can take the scenic road rather than the fast one.
Day one climbs through Ifrane and the cedar forest onto the Middle Atlas plateau, crosses the pass and drops into the Ziz Valley — the canyon of date palms that runs for a hundred kilometres through bare rock. You arrive in Merzouga in time to ride into the dunes for sunset and sleep in camp.
Day two is the one people remember. Nomad families still living in tents on the hamada, the black volcanic desert, the fossil beds at Erfoud where marble is cut full of 350-million-year-old sea creatures, and Khamlia — a village founded by descendants of Sudanese slaves, where Gnawa musicians play the trance music that came north with them. Sandboarding in the afternoon, and a second night in camp.
Day three returns north through the Todra Gorge, where the walls close to ten metres apart and rise three hundred, then the Dades Valley kasbahs and the rose country, back over the Atlas to Fez.
§02 Highlights
- 01The Ziz Valley and the Tizi n'Talghemt pass
- 02Two nights in a camp inside Erg Chebbi
- 03A full day in the desert: nomads, fossils and the black hamada
- 04Khamlia village and live Gnawa music
- 05Sandboarding on the high dunes
- 06The Todra Gorge and the kasbahs of the Dades on the way back
§03 Day by day
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Day 1
Fez to Merzouga
Ifrane, the cedar forest and the Tizi n'Talghemt pass, then the Ziz Valley. Camel trek into the dunes at sunset. Night in camp.
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Day 2
A full day in the desert
Nomad families, the black desert, the Erfoud fossil workshops, Khamlia and Gnawa music, sandboarding in the afternoon. Second night in camp.
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Day 3
Gorges, kasbahs and the road home
Sunrise on the ridge, then north through the Todra Gorge, the Dades Valley and the Atlas. Evening arrival in Fez.
§04 What the price covers
- Included
- +Private air-conditioned 4x4 or minivan with driver for three days
- +Riad or hotel pickup and drop-off in Fez
- +Camel trek into Erg Chebbi
- +Two nights in a desert camp with private tent and bathroom
- +Two dinners and two breakfasts in camp
- +Gnawa music session at Khamlia
- +Fuel, tolls and parking
- +Bottled water throughout
- Not included
- −Lunches
- −Drinks other than water
- −Sandboard hire (around 50 MAD)
- −Gratuities for the driver and camp crew
§05 Questions
Why three days instead of two?
The second night buys you a whole day inside the desert and a scenic return through the Todra Gorge. Almost everyone who does two days wishes they had done three.
What is the camp like?
Private tent with a proper bed, en-suite bathroom and hot shower, rugs, shared fire and dinner under the stars. A luxury camp option is available.
Is the Gnawa session authentic?
Yes. Khamlia is a real village and the musicians are from it. It is a small room, not a stage show.
How much driving is there each day?
Around eight hours on day one, two to three on day two, and seven on day three. The scenery does most of the work.
Can we start or finish in Marrakech?
Yes. The same circuit runs Fez to Marrakech as a one-way, which saves a long backtrack. Ask us for the price.
Do I pay now?
No. Reserve now and pay on the day, with the full price agreed in writing first.
